Back in the U.S.

(Note:  Trying to get caught up in real time!  We are currently in the Hudson River, planning on arriving in Manhattan, NYC this afternoon, 9/25)

It was a just a couple hours run from Brakey Bay, CA to the US side of the St. Lawrence, and we entered at Clayton, NY.  Even though we had reported back into the country by phone app (CBP Roam – pretty cool) and had a clearance number, boats must declare a port of entry in case Customs decides they want a look at you.  We never saw them – we have a long history of coming/going to Canada which is all in their database and probably helps (once they even asked where the dog was! He had passed on, we asked them to remove him from their notes.) Clayton’s marina didn’t answer and the municipal dock was full, so we anchored in the bay and took the dinghy to the dock for ice.  Even though the open hours were posted, no one was there.  We have noticed a definite lack of employees everywhere, and many things are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays as well. As we stood pondering lugging ice from the grocery store more than a half mile away, a couple walked up and offered to drive us to the store! People’s generosity is always such a pleasant surprise in the face of all the bad news we tend to hear about the world.

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After we swamped out the fridge (REALLY looking forward to installing that new unit once we get to Oswego) we returned to shore for a walk around. The main street runs along the waterfront and has several restaurants and bars, shops and a great hardware store. There are lots of smaller motor boats that run across the river to the homes on the islands. Clayton is also the home of the largest Antique Boat Museum in the states.

We spent the night on the hook, grateful that we weren’t banging on the municipal dock in the chop from the NE winds. A couple in a small boat came by and told us we could take the empty mooring ball in the south part of the bay, but we were hooked well and not uncomfortable so we stayed put.  As they motored away, the woman hollered, “We love Traverse City!” (our hailing port is on the boat below our boat name).

Our destination the next day was 10 miles north on the St. Lawrence to Heart Island, home of Boldt Castle. We anchored in a little spot near the Thousand Islands Yacht Club, and dinghied over. This mansion was partially constructed at the turn of the century by the manager of the Waldorff Astoria hotel in NYC for his wife. Sadly, she died before it was finished, and he called off all workers and walked away.  It sat abandoned until the St. Lawrence Seaway Commission took it on in the 70’s. They have been working on the restoration ever since.  Although the family never lived in the mansion, the complete plans and many details were available, and it is amazing. The family crest has a stag and heart, and those are reflected often in the architecture.  Even the boathouse is magnificent.

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Travelling against the 2 knot current for our return trip gave us time to ogle the pretty vintage cottages and homes along the seaway, and to try to imagine the charmed life of spending summers in these islands. Across the river from Clayton we found a quiet wooded bay on Picton Island and anchored. It was very reminiscent of the North Channel with the forest and rock ledges. There was one cottage on the point, and as Lisa rowed around the bay, the owner came out to chat. Her family has had this property for 85 years, and now most of it is in a conservancy.  She grew up here in the summers, and lamented that on the weekends, the bay had become “party central” with rafts of boats, loud music, drunks, etc. The land is posted as No Trespassing, but she has no jurisdiction over the water.  On the one hand, we were glad because it was a lovely spot in which to stay, but we could certainly empathize with the disruption of the quiet beauty. 

We continued south towards Oswego to another tiny anchorage on Carleton Island.  As we rounded the southwest tip we were shocked to see another mansion – this one a complete wreck sitting among other, more modern cottages.  After we anchored, a guy motored out to fish and welcomed us to the bay.  We asked if it would be okay to walk up to the ruins. He said yes, since no one was around, but do it that evening since the next day cottage owners would be coming out for the Labor Day weekend. This was the Wyckoff Mansion – abandoned during the depression, and left to slowly rot away.  It is for sale – $499,000, with a restoration estimate of 2 mil. No takers so far.  If you Google it, you can see some pictures of its former glory. 

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To break up the 40 mile trek to Oswego our next destination was Sackett’s Harbor, NY, an historic summer town in this area.  We anchored at the mouth of the little harbor, and dinghied in for – what else – ice. And of course – no blocks. We were uncomfortable about the setting and unsure of the anchor holding, and decided to move to White’s Bay where we could get out of the building west winds.  Great call!  Fred grilled steak for dinner and we slept soundly, and set off for Oswego the next day.  The Oswego Canal had opened up on September 3^rd, and we were in line to have our mast taken down on Tuesday, the 7^th. We could finally enter the canal system!!

Fair winds, Fred and Lisa